Putting up a Window with a Glass Block


The home improvement store is where I purchased my glass block window. Around seven days ago. Remember to bring a small index card with the approximate doorway measurements written on it. This is how you measure it: top to the cement window sill, block to block. The man helped me select a glass block window without a vent for my purchase. Ventilation is optional but comes highly recommended. A dryer vent can be specified in one more block. 22 1/2 by 36 1/2 That’s why we got a 22-by-36-inch window. The grout must fit into the narrow gap of about a quarter of an inch on either side. It turned out that I had a little less than half an inch on either side. Due to the block’s peculiarities, this is what you require. Grout can now be applied with a grout gun made of traditional materials or a synthetic caulk. My familiarity with working with traditional grout is why I opted for it.

The old metal casement window was removed early Saturday morning. The window came out quickly; I just had to tilt it and pull it out. I removed the bottom frame and bent it using a Sawzall with a metal blade. The result was a collapsing of the two sides. The entire framework came out in a matter of minutes. In a short time, I could remove old caulk from the bricks and polish the block. We followed it up by vacuuming the entire area. Here’s where the grout has to stay put. The window frame now incorporates a fiberglass ring. Do not sever this group. It helps keep the window in place while you relocate it. Just leave it there; it won’t spoil or cause any problems.

I went outside and, with the help of another person, set the glass block assembly on the sill. We used two shims, one on each side, to elevate it. Stack a pair upon one another. Two of them, one on each foot. And two more on the roof, one on each side. Only four shims are visible from either side. I just opened up the sides. Grout must be pushed into all these cracks. I dug with a 4-inch trowel and a 1-inch trowel. Get the window centered in the opening and level. In case the shim came loose, I secured it to the top sill plate with a screw to prevent it from breaking into the basement.

Follow the packaging directions for mixing the grout. The polymer ingredient was included in the dry form in mine. Add water according to the instructions. I did this by gradually adding water until the mixture was uniformly wet but not runny. It absorbs part of the water deeply into the mixture when I let it alone for a few moments, a process known as slack. So it could look too rigid after a while. A light sprinkle from your fingers is needed to dampen it at this stage. Only a little bit.

The grouting process is untidy. You can scatter it widely, but you should also force some into empty spaces. When I checked the progress of the grout from the outside, I knew I had done an excellent job. After cleaning my glass block with a lovely grouting sponge, I applied grout to the exterior and smoothed the seams flat. An excellent sponge is crucial because it is used to generate the desired effect.

After that, I put everything away to dry and left for two hours. Using a damp sponge, we thoroughly cleaned both sides. It dries to a thin layer that can be wiped away with a dry cloth.

It was ready for me when I got back. After taking out the shims, I was left with four holes. In addition, the grout on the window I received is set down by 14 inches, allowing additional grout to be added on top if necessary. This grout was supposed to be placed atop the glass blocks. After I had filled all the holes, I used the grout to cover the spaces between the tiles and smoothed it up with a dry, wrung-out sponge. After letting it sit for a while, I washed my hands with fresh water, wiped down my equipment, and meticulously reviewed every seam to complete the project. You will see this if you spend time worrying about it. Finally, I used an old t-shirt to carefully and thoroughly wipe the dry film off the window. Rub down the raised area while it is still slightly wet. Relax and take it easy for a while.

Bill worked as a ceramic tile contractor for nine years and taught the subject at the local community college.

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